Alpine Climb Aguja Guillaumet

DATA SHEET

 3 Days
 Elevation gain 2000 meters
 Very difficult: training required - Technical experience required: Multi-pitch rock climbing & Ice climbing
 1 - 2 people per guide

Itinerary


Day 1

(PIEDRA NEGRA) Transfer from El Chaltén to Eléctrico River (15 km), where we will start the approach along the Eléctrico valley. After we get to “Piedra del Fraile”, we will head up to the bivouac site “Piedra Negra” (1600m/a/s/l ). It will take us about 5-6 hours with an elevation gain of about 1000 meters. The terrain is steep and there is plenty of scree in the last portion of the walk.

Day 2

(SUMMIT ATTEMPT) We will have an early wake up around 2 AM to prepare for our summit attempt. After a good cup of coffee we´ll head up to “Paso Guillaumet” (2000 m/a/s/l), going along a small glacier and mixed terrain of rock and snow. From this pass, we will use the “Amy route”, which is on the East face and starts with a 200 meters-couloir of ice and snow, with an average of 50°-60° slope.
The route continues with 4 pitches of rock climbing class IV and V, and finishes with a snow ramp to reach the summit (2574 m/a/s/l). For the descent, we will rappel down to the start of the route and then walk down back to the “Piedra Negra” bivouac site. The complete activity will take us about 14 to 16 hours with a 1000 meters of elevation gain.
Note: An alternative route could be the Fonrouge ridge.

Day 3

3 (PIEDRA EL FRAILE/CHALTÉN) Return to the Eléctrico river bridge (4-5hs) then transfer back to El Chaltén.

  PERSONAL EQUIPMENT

• Backpack 50-60 lts
• Sleeping bag (-15°C)
• Insulating mattress
• Bottle and thermo flask 1l
• Synthetic underwear
• 2 polar jackets (100 and 200)
• Fleece jacket or wind stopper (heavy weight)
• Puff jacket (synthetic or down)
• Wool or fleece hat
• Neck warmer, buff, or balaclava
• Sun cap
• Warm pants and t-shirt

• Gloves & waterproof gloves
• Waterproof jacket & pants (gore-tex)
• Gaiters
• Extra socks and t-shirt
• Sunglasses & goggles
• Hygienic set
• Sunbloc & lip protection
• Headlamp
• Pocket knife
• Bivi sac
• Walking poles
• Snickers or light trekking shoes



  PERSONAL CLIMBING GEAR

• Mountaineering boots*
• 2 climbing ice axes*
• rock climbing shoes*
• climbing harness*
• Crampons

• Helmet
• 4 locking carabiners*
• 1 daisy*
• 1 Reverso or ATC Guide*
• 2 prusik 5mm* x 2m


NOTE: We could rent you the marked items*. Please let us know when you register if this is required (also include your boot size).





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